Carcass was covered with main body parts without any problems, but battle section required a bit more attention. Basic detailing goes with part numbers: drivers section was added with closed hatches and covers (there is no interior in this section unfortunately).
The suspension was fitted with no major problems. It is very good to have all subparts done in advance. All were fixed to the model using two kinds of glue: Timebond (which is my regular glue) and Super Glue (which became my friend lately, for difficult connections). Timebond was first to hold the part in one spot and SG as enforcement and additional support.
I finally received laser cut tracks for this model (also for few others). Some additional works were required before putting tracks on the model.First a protective layer of wood Matt Varnish was applied as tracks are made out of white card, 1mm thick, what makes it extremely fragile and delicate. After couple layers of varnish I used Chaos Black spray from GamesWorkshop range, (very handy for undercoating plastic but not only models, saves a lot of time) and then another layer of varnish was applied to protect the color. As final painting stage I drybrushed a bit of (GW range again) Astronomican Grey and used some GW washes. I don't really like that color and after model is quite finished I hope to find good reference and repaint tracks.
Battle section walls are also ready.Vehicle has got strange superstructure, as for cannon protection it's rather high add goes in awkward angles. Bottom section of the walls have got transmission and exhaust louvres. I spent quite a lot of time on them as everything has to be in right place and have the same gap (if possible). Then it was assembled onto inside section and fitted to main body. Back of the Battle section is secured by a wall with main entry hatch, in this case hatch can be opened or closed. Hinges are made out of paper. The most difficult operation for me at the moment is to cut out correct distances between male and female parts as PIN has to go in creating a loop and then secure it.
Next step is finishing battle section details (radios, ammo boxes etc), outer details (suspension tools, field tools) and cannon itself as the final stage.
It is not exactly said in the booklet what unit or vehicle this model is representing, but according to the mark on the walls it may be from 1944, Normandy campaign. Most German tanks then had to be concealed from air reconnaissance using field net. I happen to have something what could imitate this sort of camouflage and applying it should make the final touch for my Wespe.
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