Pz Inz 130 Polish Amphibious Tank #1 / Hull & Chassis /

(source: Internet)

PzInz 130 was a prototype of amphibious tank for Polish Army designed in late 30's, based on British Vickers-Carden-Loyd Amphibian. Unarmed prototype was ready in 1937, in October of the same year underwent military testing, where proved to be reliable vehicle. In May 1939 Army High Command decided to cease further development of amphibious tanks, PzInz 130 was relocated to Ursus' R&D department. In September 1939 the prototype was lost, might have been taken over by Werhmacht, its fate is not known. 

Technical Data:

(source: Internet)

Crew: 2

Engine: PZInz.425:8 (V8), with power of 95 KM, of capacity 3880 cm³,

Armor: 4-8 mm

Length: 4,22 m

Width: 2,08 m

Height: 1,88 m

Weight: 3,92 t

Speed: 60 km/h (on road), 7-8 km/h (in water)

Range 360 km (on road), 210-220 km (terrain)

Armament:

1 x 20 mm cannon or 1 x 7,62 mm machine gun (prototype was not armed)

(source: Internet)

(source: Internet)

(source: Internet)

(source: Internet)

(source: Internet)

This build marks 20 years of my modeling, Pz Inz 130 was my first card model, bought back in 1995, which I attempted and never really finished (chassis can prove challenging especially for young and inexperienced modeler). It got me hooked though, despite starting with tank, most of my next builds were planes from the same manufacturer - Maly Modelarz, quite cheap, easy, not always perfect models were great to develop some skill and have fun. Pz Inz 130 however, was always very important (as a first model) and with time I have acquired another copy to build it again. As time was right to mark quite round anniversary I decided to rest a bit from plastic & painting figures and go back to the roots. 

Model in 1:25 scale, comes on 4 card sheets, with not too many parts, does not look complex either (and is not in fact). It is an old design, released first time somewhere in the 60's, designed in old fashioned way, by hand, has simplified features and assembly solutions. As far as I can remember from my first attempt, everything went quite well together despite obvious lack of skill, the only problem noticed was obvious lack of patience.

Before starting, model was prepared as usual - sheets with parts varnished with matt lacquer & paint matching print color picked, Citadel Catachan Green. Assembly started with preparing the carcass and hull assembly. Before covering carcass with skin, all folding lines were transferred to unprinted side using pencil, then scored on each side with sharp blade, not too deep, not too cut through, and line picked out. It created nice groove which folds without breaking or cracking the card (which is evident when folding old cardstock). All edges were painted before assembly not to show off any white.

With hull ready, the most time consuming part of each tank model was started - wheels. Not too many in here in comparison to e.g. Panzer IV, but still required a lot of cutting. Each road wheel comes as 3 separate rings to be laminated with 1 mm card. 30 rings in total to be cut out and then laminated with each other. Unlike modern design where assembly goes inside - out, this model has got rings and inset - style rim with ribs, the rim required little trimming, on the inside of black line. Road wheels are white, as were supposed to be angled (by sanding) but I decided to omit this step . Instead used graph paper to create an edging strip to cover unevenly cut rings (what is visible due to variety of cuts on each laminated ring) and then painted. Sprocket and stretching wheel (assembly exactly teh same as road with exception for the rim) are nothing unusual, assembled as per instructions.

 

All wheels were assembled with spring equalizers after painting and fixed to the hull on previously prepared bars, that go through the hull and stick out both sides. Before fitting chassis on, rear part of hull had to be detailed. This is the trickiest part of the build, especially if all framework is made out of card. In my first build I had no idea how to form these parts, each tube has to be rolled, but if just rolling the card it cracks and creases. Using soft side of a mouse pad and stick of brush helps to achieve this, by using a rolling pin motion with very little pressure. After a while the part will start rolling itself, then can be fully formed.

As mentioned before it is very tricky, as thicker card - such as one provided within the kit may split. Modern design has paper strips that are rolled (on pin) and are very robust after, here is simply a tube, which is quite soft after assembly. Moreover, after rolling such card, it splits! It can be blessing or a curse as a layer of such card ca be removed. Sometimes  components on provided card after assembly are simply not to scale due to thickness of material, so thinning it maybe be a solution. It also weakens the construction, so have to be careful where this procedure is applied. Also not all tubes can be made out of the kit. I failed to roll 1,5 - 2 mm tube that was to secure bottom of propeller's cover and replaced it with electrical wire sleeve. Whole framework visible below, with exception for the bottom bar, has been made out of kit parts. Propeller has been assembled on a pin, which was glued to the hull. To give it additional feature I locked it from inside with wire sleeve and it can rotate.

 

With propeller mechanism ready, all wheels have been assembled onto spring equalizers and fitted to the hull. From then on model can stand on it's own wheels, which will be aligned when assembling tracks. Basically majority of work on the model is done. Upper hull details left, the turret with 20mm cannon (that version was never build, as mentioned in technical data, the  prototype was never armed) and laser cut tracks.