Ford T Modell 1912, Revell, 1:16

I used to build plastic models in 1:72 or 1:76 scales, tanks and planes alike (Matchbox, Revell, Academy). I do remember few kits I really enjoyed in 1:76 each with small diorama - Wespe, Panzer III DAK or American Half Track. I also tried my basic skills making few 1:35 models, Kubelwagen and BMW R75 from Italeri, Stug IV and Sdkfz 232. This time I picked something bigger, and quite different from my general interests. It is model of rather famous car from beginning of 20th century - Ford T (1912). Kit is from Revell, the scale is 1:16. It is also a special gift model, which I built some time ago, waiting not to spoil a surprise...

Sdkfz 7/1 #6 / Steering wheels / Military Vehicles And Half Tracks

So much to do so little time, for now at least. Steering wheels are done, thread is still to be applied, the most time consuming job as I decided to cut grooves out, giving tires a bit more life, or just to practice precision cutting. I did not change anything within wheel/tire construction.  Main wheel has been assembled using two side cover rings, ribs glued vertically between them and edged. Assembly diagrams are missing parts (20b), (20c), both should be put together into inner edging strip, with colour inside.  I had some trouble with fitting axle, as part itself was not long enough to get desired diameter (bottom of the axle was fitted to the rim, and top was left loosely rolled).

Sdkfz 7/1 # 5 / Engine & Gearbox /

I spent some time building engine and gearbox, which came as two separate components joined together and fixed to chassis and onto front/main axle. Basic assembly started with shaping up long exhaust pipes, making engine block and gearbox (which was tried on first, according to instruction should be mounted upon two axles, 25f, kit provides only part 25e, one long axle, apparently for running wheels). Engine block (Y shaped) and gearbox were connected together and details were applied, some rivets and small pipework. The most challenging part of the build were collectors and exhaust pipes, made out of copper cable and sleeve. The trick was to bend cable to required shape and fit it to collectors and the engine. It did not turn out the best though, I have something to improve next time. 

HP Hampden & V Wellington

Conservation Centre at Cosford opened it's door to the public for a week, and I could not miss such opportunity to see aircraft under process of restoration. There were Vickers Wellington, HP Hampden and Harrier available to see up pretty close. 10 - 15 minutes long documentary displayed next to Wellington informed how this plane was built, from basic assembly of framework (what is currently undergoing restoration process), electrical circuits installation, bodywork, engine mounting to test flight, and how long did it take. Surprise is, only 24 - 30 hours were required to build fully operational bomber. Other exhibit - Hampden - was in pieces, mid & rear section of main body, landing gear and engine separate.

Sdkfz 7/1 # 4 / Chassis & details /

I bet everyone is familiar with saying: "the devil is in details", needless to say - it's true! Don't know if "he" starts poking fingers into not only mine, but everybody's work when it needs to be done quickly and well, but I have this sort of strange feeling sometimes he does. The more I try, the less I make or build and then, I think, is a good time for break, or some other activity, options are many, in fact, always more than time. 

Sdkfz 7/1 # 3 / Chassis /

This is the first model I built that stands on it's own wheels so soon. After rather long assembly of rear suspension components and tracks, basic chassis came next and gave me a chance to try everything out. For safety reasons it was not fixed permanently. All applicable components for main framework were thickened with card, I used 1 mm thick card (long flanks are 2 mm thick, 2 parts fixed back to back), what, according to assembly instructions, is a bit too much by 0,2-0,3 mm, but after considering overall weight of finished model it may be just enough for permanent support. Increased thickness of frame components can be noticed, but does not seem to be a problem, everything is still lined up correctly without any relocations.

Bovington Tank Museum #1

I finally had a chance to visit Tank Museum in Bovington, trip was quite long, 190 miles one way, but well worth it. I think it is a Must Visit for any tank modeler.

Before even approaching main buildings there are many examples of what can be seen (or poked) inside - tanks are everywhere. Tour around the Museum involves several displays, The Tank Story, Trench Experience, The Discovery Center and Battlegroup Afghanistan. There are plenty tanks to be seen across all these sections, from time of Great War  to very modern.  I did not even realize how big they actually are, Tiger is huge, but King Tiger or JagdTiger are monstrous. So are power-plants and engines (also on display) for such machines. It is pretty impressive seeing in reality how thick tank armor was, and how thin it may have seemed to what enemy may have prepared to use against. It all served and serves still one purpose though - breaking enemy resistance.
 

{Link to Part 2}

Trip to RAF Cosford

Having some spare time I took another trip to nearby based RAF Museum in Cosford. 20 miles done with no problem and no delay - quick & easy, only parking to be paid and that's all the cost. Friday morning was not bad choice at all, two coach parties of pupils and few adult visitors - perfect. Before kids appeared in the area where all War Planes are, I took closer look at few shown below:

Sdkfz 7/1 # 2 / Tracks & Sprockets /

Any paper model of a tank or a half track is very requiring and time consuming because of great number of parts for all wheels and track links. Without applying "cutting many in one go" methods the build would take even longer. For square shaped parts  it's good to use knife and metal ruler to guide blade avoiding wave like edges left by scissors. Perfect, if parts are grouped together (like in this kit:) and one cut sorts few out in one go. Tracks are made out of single links connected by a pin. Usually, but not always, 2 versions of tracks are provided: single links or strips (models for experienced modelers are usually supplied with only single link version, other option seems to be waste of space). Strip version of tracks can be made pretty quickly, main difference is thickness, flexibility and construction time. Single links are very flexible (pin-joints), take easy any curves especially around the sprocket, where strip may crack or be difficult to shape up. There is however third option, which is laser cut set of tracks. It looks like simple, strip version but with all details cut out (see Stug IV).   

SdKfz 7/1 #1 / Road Wheels /

This one was long(er) time coming, as my attention was drawn away for a bit, into wet and peculiar reality of Silent Hill "Downpour". New release of this old and famous horror series features Murphy Pendelton's story, escaped convict looking for a way out of prison bus crash site. He ends up in Silent Hill, a very dark town. Town itself  may not exactly scare, but give a bit of goose flesh, and that feeling of un-reality. Murphy is allowed to scout the town in certain limits, roads are still cut off, any available way out is blocked, but more areas are available to explore. Side quests are present in those extra locations and give some additional info about story line and Murphy's past (after all there must be a reason why he is in claws of madness). Game can be easily put in line with part 2, which is widely considered as best out of the series. The Downpour takes what is the best out of all previous games I suppose, novelty is escape or rather running away from "red nightmare" in different versions of "other world" (similarity to Silent Hill Shattered Memories for Wii). Game definitely deserves attention, it's "must have" for all fans. Completing it once is never enough especially having bonuses in second play through :D 

Sturmgeshutz IV #6

The fewer details it seems the longer it takes. Engine hatches and back engine plate with all details are done. Miniature of the gun came next, it's base with characteristic "snout" ("Saukopfblende") shape is made but not yet fixed to the upper hull. Gun barrel was rolled out of kit's card, after almost hour spent rolling can say I'd rather prefer offset paper as alternative. Offset is softer, easier to control and keep in line. Card is too thick for small diameters, moreover if too much pressure is applied while rolling surface my crack or bend leaving visible marks. For rolling I use 2 mm in diameter, few inches long steel bar. Surface for this method is important, it has to be soft and flexible. I use back side of old mause pad, which is "foamy" and ideal for this kind of job. The 'slope' part of gun's base has difficult shape, had to fold it first in proper areas than stick it piece by piece to the rest. Design here did not fail, but part requires extra attention especially on the "round" corners, angle is more than 90 - 100 degrees, curved and has to be flat on joining point. 

Sturmgeshutz IV #5

Stug finally stands on it's own wheels. All subcomponents of suspension are finished and ready for further assembly.

Subparts of suspension were added up in following order: first idler wheel with it's plate was fixed to the body, return rollers next. Before  connecting sprocket  to the body a length of tracks was applied and shaped onto it with long back section set to lay upon return rollers. Same method was used with idler section. Road wheels were then fixed to the trolleys and last bottom section of tracks was added. Tracks were over painted in flat color inside and drybrushed outside (more visible details).

Sturmgeshutz IV #4

After long time spent on making and cutting circles I feel I am almost there. Sprockets, spring equalizers with trolleys, return rollers, stretching wheels and road wheels are ready.

Stretching wheel though does not seem to be designed in right way if comparing against historical materials, but for quite simplified model like that it does not really matter. I also tried to apply rivets wherever applicable, and am quite glad how it looks and gives certain character to otherwise dull superstructure of model made in standard.

Sturmgeschutz IV #3

Main and the largest in quantity part of suspension is mostly done. 32 road wheels, 5 parts each made me feeling like working in circles. Assembly required a lot of patience, but I applied mass production procedures (which are necessary for models like that and bigger e.g. ships, I just have to say I admire ship builders because of number and size of components). All parts have been cut out first and everything here is numbered with sense with manual giving proper image of what to do and in what order.

Sturmgeschutz IV #2

 

I think most difficult part of that model is behind me. I had no problems covering carcass of superstructure, all parts were in right shape and size. Quite important thing to remember about carcass while making paper models is carcass is to be fitted to outer covers not covers to carcass. Sanding is necessary  in any case and leaves carcass smooth with no surface imperfections visible after covering (e.g. if a thicker spot of glue is left on surface it will create a visible bump or if too long edges on joints are left out may cause raised areas and general smoothness disturbance) . Having superstructure done I started works on suspension. Leaf spring are done and painted. There are 11 parts for one spring unit,  made out of different length strips.

Sturmgeschutz IV #1

My next project is again one of the German crawlers, assault/infantry support self propelled gun. Sturmgeschutz IV (SdKfz 163 according to assembly booklet, but browsing through available references and books I found it listed as SdKfz 167) is one of the most famous German constructions based upon Panzer IV ausf H chassis. First Stug was based upon Panzer III chassis, with low enveloping armored superstructure. It did not have the turret as low profile was specially requested.

Sdkfz 124 Wespe #5

Superstructure is ready, tools (made out of wooden sticks shaped to scale size and shape), containers, radios, spare length of tracks, and other details were applied. Work with such small parts requires a lot of patience especially in cutting out required bits using tip of the hobby knife .


Cannon came in two stages, first was building the base and fitting it's all details, second connecting base to barrel mounted upon recoil rail with miniature of the shell lock at rear. Two independent axis made uneasy to keep right symmetry of barrel against base and lifted  cannon in one position.

Sdkfz 124 Wespe #4

Carcass was covered with main body parts without any problems, but battle section required a bit more attention. Basic detailing goes with part numbers: drivers section was added with closed hatches and covers (there is no interior in this section unfortunately).

Sdkfz 124 Wespe #3

 Finally after couple weeks time all 10 equalizer springs are finished. The most difficult part of the process was getting to do it and cutting out all necessary bits. 

One equalizer is made out of 4 x 1mm shaped card reinforcements (40 in total) 2 of the same shape side covers as well as top and bottom strip covers, 7 spring leafs, screw nuts and small spring holding clips. I did not avoid a small mistake though, last 2 rear equalizers should have been made with different angle of springs, and I accidentally made all the same. It's nothing too difficult to sort out, as suspension can be bent a bit.

Sdkfz 124 Wespe #2

I have managed to finish all wheels. Sprockets, stretching wheels, main wheels and supporting wheels (20  in total, 10 main, 2 sprockets, 2 stretchers and 6 supporting).

Unfortunately main wheels had to be reworked (point where I almost lost motivation to carry out works on the model), width was to great (by 1mm) to fit onto single tracks. In effect every wheel had to be stripped down, and the top strip/edge cut down to required size. First I tried to push one side in, without disassembly, sand down sticking out edge and paint it over. It turned out to be too messy and time consuming, while cutting down stripped part to size proved better. Outcome is not great, but not the worst after all.

I did not fix any holding pins and other connections. Main wheels will have to fit exactly where the sprocket is, and wheel itself is mounted on equalizer spring unit which is finally fixed to lower hull. 10 of these units, single per wheel, are my next objective. I am currently preparing springs and completing main body reinforcements (same shape as body but 1mm thick, 4 per 1 so I have to cut out 40). I will also leave them for now without any connectors. 

Sdkfz 124 Wespe #1

For next project I picked up paper model of Sdkfz 124 Wespe from GPM, self propelled artillery in 1:25 scale. It is based upon Pzkpfw II chasis, which in French campaign proved to be not capable enough to compete with modern enemy units. It's qualities were appreciated though and vehicle stayed in service as support unit and artillery. 

Specifications

Weight 11 tonnes (24,250 lb)

Length 4.81 m (15 ft 9 in)

Width 2.28 m (7 ft 6 in)

Height 2.3 m (7 ft 7 in)

Crew 5 (commander, driver, three gunners)

Armor 5 - 30 mm (.19 - 1.18 in)

Main armament 1x 10.5 cm leFH 18M L/28 with 40 rounds

Engine 6-cyl petrol Maybach HL62TR 140 hp (105 kW)

Power/weight 12.7 hp/tonne

Suspension leaf spring

Operational range 220 km (137 mi)

Speed 40 km/h (25 mph)

As usual I have started the build from the most time consuming and most, at least for me, boring part of the whole model - wheels. For now main wheels are done, but still require some detailing - front wheel cap and back support/connecting rod. 

Front cap is actually done, all I need to do now is to cut it out. I tried new way of dealing with many and small parts at once, in fixed position and with no mess and problems: main part has been left on small piece of paper grouped together, as picture shows, top layer has been glued in and fitted in right position to imitate screw sockets. Diameter of the cap is around 5 - 6mm, what is not easy to handle when fixing both parts cut out first. 

It is my first model from GPM, I have quite few of them in my possession though (in future, maybe not that distant plans: Pzkpfw III, Pzkpfw IV, Wirbelwind (flak gun mounted upon Panzer IV chasis), NeubarFarzeug (german prototype heavy multi turret tank), two bombers from Battle for Britain period - Heinkel 111 and Dornier 17). After putting few Modelik's together I got used to certain standard, but it's something different so I think is worth trying - subject is very interesting and quite uncommon for paper modeling after all. I have also decided to use laser cut tracks, to save some time and make model more interesting (I will stay with single pieces traction on larger models).