Sunday 18 March 2012

Sdkfz 234/2 Puma #6

Working up late yesterday I managed to put together and fit one side and wheels cover, and second has just been completed. It was tricky assembly as plenty of different angles and angled connections caused paper to wave and move. I had some small issues with length and width of top part of side armor. Minor cutting was applied  and all visible imperfections have been removed. Small gaps and grooves were filled with Super Glue and after will be painted. There are some very small gaps between main hull and top parts of both sides which will not be filled with Super Glue as the other ones - most of them will be covered by jerry cans and other details.




Folding side boxes and square or rectangular containers requires proper attitude to avoid cracks and damages to the paper. Long time ago I used to drag blunt tip of a knife or tip of a needle along the folding line. It was ok for young modeler, as paper was visibly cut. It made folding very easy, but it did not look well especially on not painted model. Now standards have changed and models so the techniques used to build them.  
To get nicely done fold without obvious paper damage are required: sharp modeling knife, ruler, fine marker or a pencil. First folding line has to be transfered to the other side of paper. I use "light method" - while holding it against the light I just mark where to draw a line. After drawing straight line with ruler I drag sharp tip of knife on both sides of my line. It creates thin strip of paper possible to remove without damaging top or printed layer (strip is as deep as hard knife has been pressed against paper, caution is advised not to cut too deep, through paper). Groove made that way allows paper to be folded in any way. Folded and then filled with Super Glue keeps angle very well and is quite solid (great method for bigger parts).

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